Sant'Efisio

Saint who? 

If you’ve never heard of Efisio, don’t berate yourself. Neither had I. My guess is that most people outside Sardinia would be scratching their heads, but there, and especially in their capital city of Cagliari, Efisio is a superhero, who stood by them not only in life, but also, many centuries later, in death.

His story begins not in Sardinia but in the Roman colony Aelia Capitolana, which was established in Jerusalem after it was sacked by the Romans. His father, Christofero, was Christian, but his mother Alessandra, was a pagan, and when Christofero died, she brought Efisio up as a pagan. He was taken under the wing of the Emperor Diocletian, and became a Roman soldier. He was sent to Italy to join Diocletian’s fervent campaign to stamp out Christianity, and posted to Sardinia to lead the army in fighting rebel tribes in its interior, but it is said that while he was riding his horse to Naples, he was thrown down by a flash of light, and heard a voice saying “I am Christ, the one you persecute”. If you think that story sounds eerily familiar, you are right. It is almost exactly the same as the story of the Conversion of St Paul, but ancient writers thought nothing of recycling plots!

However it happened, Efisio decided to become a Christian, and was baptised. This brought him into conflict with his former patron, Diocletian. How could he persecute Christians when he was one himself? How could he persecute anyone, if he was ruled by a God of love? Efisio was arrested, imprisoned, tortured and beaten in a cave, supposedly underneath what is now his church in Cagliari.

Despite the torture, and his mother’s urging to give up his faith, Efisio would not do so. Not wanting to stir up trouble in Cagliari, the governor of Cagliari ordered him to be taken over 20 miles from the city, to the town of Nora, where there was a Roman military camp, to be killed there. There he was beheaded on the beach.

A friend in time of plague

Efisio’s refusal to harm the people of Sardinia, at such great cost to himself, impressed them, and devotion to their own local martyr grew. By the 11th century, he had become their Patron Saint. Thirteen hundred years later, though, came the event that would really cement his position in their hearts and in the cultural life of their nation. In 1652 plague was sweeping across the Mediterranean – the same plague hit England in 1665 – killing many thousands of people. The people of Sardinia prayed to their Patron Saint for help, promising that, if they were delivered from the plague, they would take the statue of him which stood in his church, out on procession from Cagliari to the place of his martyrdom at Nora.

Personally, if I were being taken out for an annual outing, the place of my martyrdom wouldn’t be my first choice of a good day out, but plainly Efisio didn’t see it like that. The plague abated, and every year since then Cagliari has come to a standstill on May 1, so that they can fulfil their vow. This year, the 363rd since the processions began, Philip and I were there to watch.

St Efisio’s procession – sights, sounds and scents

The procession is huge. Every town and village in Sardinia seems to have representatives in it, dressed in their own local costumes, which are many and various. First come the traccas, decorated ox-carts, then the walking procession, singing the Rosary in Sardu, the national language. After these have passed, the cavallieri, horseman and women on horses adorned with bells, ride through the streets. Finally the great and good , the local councillors and other officials come on horseback – some obviously more used to riding than others! And, at the end of the procession, greeted with real excitement and affection comes the ox-cart carrying the statue of Efisio. “The Saint is coming”, said the people standing in the crowd next to us, almost breathlessly.

The watching crowd of many thousands joins in the procession as the Saint passes, and the whole throng make their way eventually around to the City Hall, where rose petals are thrown on the road before Efisio’s cart, so many that the road runs with rosewater and the whole air is filled with the scent.

Most of the crowd disperse at this point, but Efisio’s ox-cart trundles on, and some determined people travel with it, out of the city, towards Nora. It takes several days to get there, stopping at various points for services or overnight rests, but on May 3, Efisio reaches Nora, before returning the next day to Cagliari, and the church which is dedicated to him.

Waiting for the procession to begin. The streets were full of people in traditional dress.

Wonderfully decorated ox-carts - traccas - began the procession. 

The ox-carts were followed by the essential ox dung clearer uppers!

People from what seemed like every town and village in Sardinia took part in the walking procession, singing the Rosary in Sardu, the language of Sardinia, as they walked.

Each area had a slightly different local costume.

All ages took part.

Babies wore their christening robes.

Some walked barefoot.

Traditional shepherds costumes - probably wonderfully warm in winter, but must have been sweltering in the warm May sunshine!

The children took huge pride in being part of the procession!

The walking procession was followed by the cavalieri. There were over 200 horses in this part of the procession.

Then the great and good of Cagliari rode, or were led, through the streets - some were obviously more used to horse riding than others!

The parish priest, looking back to wait for the culmination of the procession. 

Saint Efisio's statue, in its gilded ox cart. 

The excitement was tangible.

We all joined in and followed the saint.

When the procession got to the town hall, rose petals were thrown down before it - so many that the road ran with rose water as the procession walked over it. The smell was wonderful. This little girl, in her traditional dress, with her family, was obviously really enjoying being part of the experience.

The beach at Nora, 30 miles away, to which the procession was ultimately heading. This was where Efisio was beheaded.  

A church now marks the spot - closed when we were there, sadly, but being prepared for the arrival of the saint a few days later. 

The church at Pula, on the way from Cagliari to Nora, where the statue of the saint would make an overnight stop. Efisio was held here before being taken to Nora for execution. 

Pula was decorated ready for the procession to arrive. 

On the way back from Nora to Cagliari we met with a hold up. It turned out to be the procession, wending its way slowly (at oxen walking speed) from Cagliari to its first overnight stop. )

The streets outside the church of St Efisio in Cagliari decorated for the feast. 

Another statue of St Efisio - this one is known as the  Sant'Efis sballiau, that is "the wrong Saint Efisio", because the sculptor put the cross shaped stigmata, which is  Sant Efisio is said to have received , on the wrong hand...

Sardinian young people, evidently in a group from a school or youth group, light candles at yet another statue of Efisio. 

The dungeon under the church where Efisio is said to have been held before his execution.

The pillar to which he was tied to be beaten.